Back From The Congo

Well, that was interesting.

If there is one place on Earth you don't want to be with a suspected case of Malaria and/or food poisoning/heat stroke it's probably Brazzaville airport. It was bad enough getting into the country, but leaving was a whole new level of hell. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

The journey to the Congo was actually quite pleasant, despite the interminable length and the near loss of my hat in a Parisian hotel. The flight from Paris went by much quicker than I could have hoped for, and I was only on about my twenty-seventh imagined 'crisis in the skies' scenario by the time we landed.

We left Paris mid-morning, and arrived at Brazzaville at 7pm local time.  To say that it’s a culture shock is an understatement.  Because we landed in the dark, I didn’t have the opportunity to survey the city from the air, so my limited experience is based on the time we spent at the airport, on the way to the hotel and the hotel itself.

Brazzaville airport is very small, but that wasn’t my first thought.  I had been warned that the air temperature and humidity would change as soon as the cabin doors opened, but I found that the air conditioning on the plane was sufficient to keep the worst at bay.  Stepping out of the cabin onto the runway, I was greeted by an amazing wave of heat.  My first instinct was that this was actually quite pleasant and then the humidity hit me.  I’ve never been further south than Northern Europe, so my experience of heat is that it’s something that happens occasionally and can be easily dodged if you go into a shaded or covered area.  Everywhere is hot here. 

As I was saying, the airport was small.  About 200 passengers were herded into Passport control, where we were greeted by a variety of very stern gentlemen asking for our passports.  I don’t speak French, the national language, but one of our hosts, who had flown over from Holland, Remco, was fairly adept.  It didn’t matter, as one of the local fixers used by the company bounded through passport control and started to harangue the person to speed us through the process.  He then proceeded to bound back through Passport control to wait for our luggage.  Needless to say, he didn’t show his passport, and, for him at least, security was a little lax.  We were still held up slightly, but soon we had moved past the glass cubicles into the baggage area.

The baggage area was probably no bigger than ten metres wide by about 20 metres long and was dominated by the carousel in the middle of the room.  While we were waiting for our bags to present themselves, we were constantly being buffeted by people who had got their baggage and had loaded it onto the ancient trolleys that were littered around the room.  Unable to communicate with anyone except our hosts, it made me very nervous.  What if we were separated?  What if something happens to one of us?  The idea of a big bad something loomed large in my mind, but luckily, or perhaps predictably, nothing did.

We were led by our fixer, Felix, to a minivan parked outside.  My companion Remco explained to me that even CEO's of forest companies don't wear suits and ties in the Congo, it's too damn hot, but Felix was wearing one anyway.  I guess you have to look the business in this part of town to get things done.

 ‘Papa?’  a young street kid looked at me with expectant eyes.  It was obvious that he didn’t care who Papa was, he just wanted some cash from the rich (!) tourists that had just landed.  I didn’t give him any.  After a while he drifted to someone else in our party and tried a different tack: ‘Mama?’.  Even after we had closed the doors to the van and drove off he was still looking at us.

Through the streets of Brazzaville we drove, not really knowing where we were going.  Again, I was worried.  We were expecting to go to the CIB accommodation on the outskirts of Brazzaville, but we ended up in a hotel instead, Hotel Saphir.  The exterior and lobby of the hotel didn’t do the rest of the complex any justice.  Whereas they were small and cramped, the hotel was expansive and spacious.  The swimming pool in the centre courtyard looked inviting, but as I’m more Orca than Dolphin, I decided against it.  After a very quick phone call to my girlfriend, during which I nearly burst into tears, I headed up to my room.

My room was large, but sparsely furnished, with two single beds and a tiny desk filling barely half of the room.  A tiny white fridge sat in the opposite corner, and would have seemed out of place in any other hotel I’ve ever stayed in but here it wasn’t surprising.   Even with the sparking air conditioning unit in the room blaring constantly, it was still sweltering in the room. 

Luckily, the bar and restaurant were more agreeable.  Four of us were eating that night and in the spirit of adventure we all decided to eat steaks.  There was traditional Congo fare, but after the fairly terrible steak I had, I’m glad we didn’t try it.  The highlight of the evening was when all the lights in the complex went out.  There was a quick gasp from us and a very hearty hoorah from the locals, which I took to mean that this sort of thing happens quite often. 

After a fairly sleepless night, we left early in the morning to fly to Ouesso.  Even though it was an internal flight we still had to pass through some security checks.  These consisted of the guards checking our passports a few times and asking us to open, but not search, our bags.  And with that we flew to Ouesso on a South African owned DC-9 that leaked when it flew too high and steamed after landing.  This was the flight I was most worried about, but it passed off without incident until we landed.  There we had to surrender our passports to the local police, which was very worrying for me at this stage, but we were assured that we would get them back by a large, gregarious Frenchman we met from CIB, the company we were visiting, called Sebastian.  He told us that a lot of the ex-pats, as they called themselves, thought of Brazzaville as the Roman empire and that Pokola, the village were CIB is based, was Gaul, mirroring the Asterisk and Obelix stories, quite what that made Ouesso I have no idea, but it kept me occupied trying to think of a suitable candidate.

Ouesso is a one-goat town.  Brazzaville, being the capital, has had a large amount of money spent on it.  Ouesso has a half-built airport and an office of the national bank that wouldn't look out of place on Canary Wharf but that's about it.  We spent our time waiting for our lift to the river in the Soweto bar, a wooden shack that has probably the only working fridge in town.  The heat was intense, but we were able to get a couple of cokes to pass the time.  When we got them Sebastian told us to ignore the rust on the glass bottles, he said they all come like that.

We spent about an hour in the baking heat before we got our passports back and we began driving to the Sangha River.  This is a truly beautiful stretch of water that runs into the Congo river and would take us to Pokola.  Along both banks is the tropical rainforest of the Congo Basin, with a canopy 60 metres high, stretching out for hundreds of kilometres in all directions, it dominates central Africa.  We got into the speedboat and started our final leg.

To be continued...

Off to the Jungle

So, the day has finally arrived.

Or rather, it will arrive tomorrow. In fact, although I'm flying out of the country tomorrow, I won't be reaching Congo-Brazzaville until Wednesday so the day will arrive then, I guess.

I must admit I am really nervous. I don't mind flying, I enjoy looking out of windows and admiring the sheer awesome power of science in action, but the thought of a horrible crash or accident really scares me stupid. I know that I'm more likely to be killed walking to work or going anywhere in the car, but the primitive part of my brain can't shake the fear.

I figure once I'm on the plane I'll be okay, but I've got six flights to catch this week. Having seen the landing strip at Pokola, my destination for the duration, the middle two will be the worst. It's basically a dirt road, with a river at one end, a village on one side and the mill on the other. At least they've replaced the internal Antonov fleet, but I have no idea what with.

Suffice to say, if I don't make it back it's been a pleasure....

PS. Here are a few websites to whet your appetite:

http://www.whrc.org/africa/INFORMS/study_sites/Ndoki.htm - This is where I'm traveling to, visiting CIB.
http://www.gabrielopenshaw.com/CongoMain.html - A huge amount of info on Brazzaville, where I'm staying initially, and more on the south of Congo-Brazzaville. Please note the guns on the train journey, Yay!